Sri Lanka ranked top country for travel in 2019 by Lonely Planet
Improved train services mean it’s easier than ever to explore Sri Lanka but campaigners warn a surge in tourism could ruin its natural beauty
Almost 10 years after the end of its civil war, Sri Lanka has been named the best country in the world to visit in 2019 by Lonely Planet. Better transport links, new hotels and a growing number of activities were cited as the reason the south-Asian island was chosen for the top spot in the guidebook publisher ’s annual Best in Travel awards.
“Already notable to intrepid travellers for its mix of religions and cultures, its timeless temples, its rich and accessible wildlife, its growing surf scene and its people who defy all odds by their welcome and friendliness after decades of civil conflict, this is a country revived,” says Lonely Planet author Ethan Gelber in the Best in Travel 2019 book, published today.
“Unmissable experiences” include wildlife, such as the 300-strong elephant gathering at Minneriya national park, thousand-year old Buddhist monuments, and hiking and train travel through the Hill Country’s tea plantations.
Tourist visits to Sri Lanka have increased dramatically since the end of the 26-year conflict, from 447,890 in 2009 to an all time high of 2.1 million last year, a figure the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority hopes to double by 2020. Renovations made to the rail system have opened up Jaffna and much of north for the first time since 1990 – an area that was previously considered too dangerous for tourists. The scenic rail routes in Sri Lanka are now widely thought to be some of the best in the world. Motorways have also been built as far south as Matara, and the number of domestic flight routes has increased in recent years, too: for instance, from the capital Colombo, on the west coast, to Batticaloa, on the opposite side of the island, in 45 minutes.
There has also been a huge investment in new visitor accommodation: from homestays to high-end eco retreats – such as the Wild Coast Lodge’s cocoon-like buildings in Yala national park. Major international hotel chains, including Shangri-La, Mövenpick, Sheraton, and Grand Hyatt, are all opening new properties.
Sri Lanka’s surf scene has been steadily growing, as more of the coast has become accessible, and tour operators are now offering jungle hiking, alongside yoga breaks with traditional Ayurveda treatments. There are also plenty of free attractions, including colourful puja rituals on the clifftop of Koneswaram Kovil in Trincomalee in the north east; Colombo’s main market of Pettah; and the fortified walls surrounding the colonial old town of Galle in the south.
While the ratio of tourists to residents is relatively low compared with countries where overtourism is now a major issue, some conservationists have expressed concern over the speed of development in certain areas.
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“Tourism is a major income generator for the country. Unfortunately, much of our tourism is focused on numbers of tourists [rather than] the investment they make in the country,” says Asha de Vos, marine biologist and founder of Sri Lanka-based conservation organisation Oceanswell.
“To accommodate the numbers, we are building more hotels and infrastructure and taking over natural spaces. The pressure on our wildlife and cultural sites is immense and destructive. The over-development is ongoing and unending – and because of the lack of coordination and planning, many hotels lie empty. So while tourism has its positives, if done haphazardly and without planning you destroy the very resources that draw people in.”
De Vos says development is affecting coastal areas and national parks in particular, where capacity is being exceeded in peak season and has led to an increase in pollution from rubbish not being disposed of properly.
She believes tourism in Sri Lanka can be beneficial but says the government needs to regulate, educate, have a longer-term vision and protect areas from over-development. “Sustainability should be at the core of any tourism product that is created.”
Human rights charities have also criticised large-scale tourism developments for their negative impact on local people.
Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel lists the top 10 countries, cities and regions alongside other travel experiences for the year ahead, ranked by the staff of Lonely Planet, including editors and contributors from around the world. Germany is rated second in the countries list, with a nod to the centenary of Bauhaus next year, and Zimbabwe – where tourists are starting to return after the resignation of Robert Mugabe – comes in third. In fifth position is Kyrgyzstan, which has 2,700km of newly-marked trekking routes. Copenhagen, Shenzhen in China and Nova Sad in Serbia were named as the best cities to travel to in 2019, while top trends include dark-skies tourism (with an increase in people stargazing and solar eclipse trips) and electric road trips, thanks to a rise in the number of car-rental companies offering alternatives to petrol and diesel vehicles.
10 reasons why you should visit Sri Lanka
It has a tropical climate, golden beaches, tea plantations and wildlife-packed national parks – why Sri Lanka should be on your travel bucket list
Sri Lanka is a tropical and incredibly diverse island off the southern tip of India that can offer holiday makers everything from pristine sandy beaches to ancient Buddhist temples and lush green hills dotted with tea plantations to wildlife safaris. Its tourism industry suffered major setbacks from its 20 year civil war, which ended in 2009, as well as devastaion from the 2004 tsunami.
But it’s getting back on its feet and a slew of luxe new hotel openings are putting it back on the map. Here are 10 reasons why you should visit the ‘pearl of the Indian Ocean’ this year.
The climate
Sri Lanka has a blissful tropical climate that offers winter sun to us northern hemisphere dwellers. It’s also varied, so you can go from sunbathing in the dry heat of the southern beaches to the cool breezes of the Hill Country in the same holiday. But you’ll need to plan your trip carefully if you want to avoid its two distinct monsoon seasons. The main south-western monsoon brings rain to the popular South West between May and September, whilst the dry season in this region runs from December to March. In the less-visited North and Eastern parts of the island, the weather is influenced by the north-eastern monsoon, which brings wind and rain between October and January, with drier weather between May and September. December to March is the most popular time to visit.
The tea trails
Lovers of a good cuppa will be in their element in Sri Lanka: the cool Hill Country is covered with tea plantations on every available slope. Opt to stay with Ceylon Tea Trails (teatrails.com), which has four luxury bunglaowes connected by walking trails through stunning tea gardens. The Ceylon area covers 2000 square kilometres and produces 300 million kg of Ceylon Tea per year – make sure you rouse yourself to climb the famed 2250m Adam’s Peak holy mountain for a sunrise to remember.
The beaches
The beaches in the south and west are the most buzzing right now on this teardrop-shaped island. Known unofficially as the ‘Sri Lankan Riviera’, the beaches are a majestic golden-tan colour, fringed with swaying palm trees and backed by orchards, rice paddies and lowland tea plantations. The southern beaches around the colonial town of Galle are the most paradisical, but if you’re after something a little wilder, head west.
The hotels
There have been a spate of exciting new hotel opening in Sri Lanka, which are helping to boost it as a destination, especially for honeymooners. First up is Tri (trilanka.com), the country’s first contemporary, sustainable luxury design hotel, which has 11 unique suites flanking the serene Lake Koggala. Cape Weligama (capewelligama.com), which opened in 2014, should also be on your hitlist: 39 villas occupy a lush 12-acre plot on a spectacular clifftop on the south coast, alongside an infinity pool and three excellent restaurants.
The people
Sri Lankans are an incredibly kind, smiley and welcoming lot – travellers often return home saying they are hands down the nicest people in the world. Every man and his dog will talk to you on the street, but you won’t be hassled like in nearby India.
The shopping
In the capital Colombo – which is well worth staying a night in – you can buy label Western clothes at a discount as well as bringing home teas, spices and brightly coloured clothes. It’s also a fantastic place to pick up precious gem stones.
The food
You’ll go wild for the food, which has been shaped by its colourful historical and culural past. Must-eats include: curd and treacle, a dessert made using buffalo milk curd and dusted with coconut; hoppers, which are like a battered pancake, cradling everything from eggs and veggies to sweet treats; and of course, Sri Lankan curries, seafood and King coconuts.
Its cultural heritage
Sri Lanka is jam-packed with world heritage sites that you should make time to visit if possible. These include: the Sacred City of Kandy, a famous pilgrimage site for Buddhists in the centre of the country, et on a plateau surrounded by mountains; the old fortified town of Galle, which was founded in the 16th century by the Portuguese on the southwestern tip of the island ; and the Golden Temple of Dambulla, a cave monastery with Buddhist mural paintings and 157 statues that has been a sacred pilgrimage site for 22 centuries. In short, anyone with a historical inclination will find Sri Lanka, which was colonised by the Dutch, Portuguese and British, fascinating.
The surfing scene
It’s not just tea and traditions, Sri Lanka is slowly making a name for itself as a hot surfing destination and is touted as being like ‘Bali 20 years ago’. Head to Arugam Bay on the east coast during the summer months (April to October) for the best surf. For a more high end stay, check out the new Soul and Surf (soulandsurf.com) experience on the south coast, where you stay in lush villas and enjoy a soul-nourishing mix of surf, yoga and massage. Adrenaline junkies will also find lots of white water rafting opportunities in Kitugula, where Bridge Over the River Kwai was filmed.
Wildlife
Sri Lanka is one of the best places in Asia for seeing wildlife with an abundance of leopards, elephants and birdlife. If you want to spot leopards, head to Yala West National Park, which is six hours from Colombo and easily combined with a surfing trip to nearby Arugam Bay. If wild elephants are more your bag, try Uda Walawe National Park, which is four hours from the captial and near the tea trails.